So for a brief introduction to the subject matter and the uninitiated, Madeira is a style of wine that can trace its lineage over 300 years. The name is from the Island of the same name, a charming bucolic little rock in the Northern Atlantic. The wine comes from the dry (Sercial) all the way to the sweeter styles of Boal.
What makes the style of wine so unique, and the focus of this tasting, is the faintly incredible ageing potential. We went as far as the 1907 (tasting notes below) but Luis will happily sell you wines from as back as the 1850s..
1999 Sercial
Nuts and honey. Not candied per se, but elements of almost an alpine lodge. Complex and interwoven. Hints at sweetness but without being so (think Christmas pudding without the sugar). Finish is so expressive. Moreish, dangerously so.
1989 Sercial
Subtle, more so than the 1999. ‘All enveloping gentle acidity’ I had in my scribbles at the time. Somewhat quite remarkable how zippy it is on the palate. For the most ridiculous tasting comment of the day, I award myself the prize with ‘tangy challenging firework’. Strong.
1969 Sercial
Now the character is evolving. This is more like a ginger cake. Baking spice, mellow. Still has the acidity in the front of the palate to keep everything interesting. Fascinating drop.
1907 Malvazia Reserva
Deep copper colour, but still vibrant. Textured, warm and inviting. First aromas were something akin to a lime pickle that’s sweet - a kind of reduced confection of citrus fruit, that’s none too saccharine. Quite how you know how to balance the acidity on these wines to last >100 years is beyond me. What a privilege.
As a last side-bar, we stayed at the Belmond in Madeira and they had a bottle of this painted on their Fresco.. Must be in the stars.
What did I learn?
Listening to Luis’ family journey through the generations and acquisitions, two things really stood out. Wine-making requires tenacity that few I think truly appreciate. It’s gritty, gutsy work in the fields in order to be able to show the elegance in the glass. Secondly, it’s patience. It’s a cliche, and a common theme amongst the most revered houses, but not rushing the release and having the self-confidence in delayed delivery makes the experience all the more special.
Thank you to Luis and his family for sharing their journey with us.
